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Wheel change
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Ganz neu ...

Ganz neu ...

Tyres 1
Tyres 2


History of Wheels 1
History of Wheels 2
History of Wheels 3
History of Wheels 4
History of Wheels 5
History of Wheels 6

Tyre label
History Sec. Wheels
Winter Tyre
Snow Chains
All-weather Tyres
Where to mount new

Radial Ply Tyre
Cross-ply Tyre
Tyre fitting
Additional information
Wheel Balancing
Bus Wheel Balancing
Tyre Production 1
Tire Production 2
Wheel Load Limits
Roller Reststance 1
Emergency Running 1
Emergency Running 2
Tyre Press. Control 1
Tyre Control 2
Tyre Press. Control 3
Rims 1 -

Rims 2 -

Alloy Rim (production)
Rims 4 - forged
Low Cross-section
Drop-center Rim
Spoked wheel
Rim Hump
Rim (truck)
Emergency Wheel
Wheel Positions
Steering Offset
Steering axis incl.
Wheel Alignment
Relative Steering Angle
Obl./Side slip angle
Axle Alignment 1
Axle Alignment 2
Axle Alignment 3

Tyre Calculation
Inch -> mm
Axle Load Distrib.
Payload Distrib.
Roller Resistance 2

Wheels 2
Wheels 3
Wheels 4
Wheels 5
Wheels 6
Wheels 7
Wheels 8
Wheels 9
Wheels 10
Wheels 11
Wheels 12
Wheels 13

  Tyre Mounting

Tyres should be not mounted at below 15°C or above 50°C!

The modern, very shallow tyres of today don't make the mounting any easier. Indeed, the material itself rather gives the impression of being more filigree than previously, together with the force behind todays machines, this can prove to be a dangerous mixture, if one does not approach the task with the necessary responsibility.

This already starts with the removal of the tyre from the rim. Is it the correct size and is it not below the load- and maximum speed index? What does the manufacturer recommend? Was, in fact, the previous tyre permitted? May the new tyre even be mounted? Recently, e.g., a new labeling obligation, showing the noise development factor has come into force.

First of all, the tyre must be pressed inwards on both sides. If this is done using a so called 'bead breaker', this must be placed immediately above the rim edge, so that it doesn't slip off and damage the tyre flank. Even if it is pressed off using a roller, the valve area should be avoided, because here a tyre pressure sensor can be assumed. During the following spanning one must avoid that the tension jaws damage the tyre flank.

The lubricant is also used for the removal. Using a flat brush, one applies it to the rim edge, the bead and the adjoining flank, to make it easier to slip the tyre over the rim edge. Thereby of course, the opposite side must be pressed hard into the well of the rim. Remember, the tyre that you are removing may be able to be used again. Either that, or the tyre has been so maltreated, that its further use can be excluded simply by looking at it.

Fundamentally, the mounting tools may have no burrs or sharp edges. Some parts of the equipment have plastic covers, e.g., the bead breaker. The rim without tyre is then carefully examined and possibly cleaned. Should the tyre have an unusual inside edge or a hump-form, it must be cleared whether the tyre can in fact, be used with this rim.

Nowadays, a number of vehicles are fitted with a tyre pressure control found mostly near the valve. One can safely assume that its battery will not last as long as the tyre, and presumably, must be completely replaced, unless the manufacturer states otherwise. Draw the (lubricated) valve carefully out and check its seal. Remember, to screw in the valve there is even a torque wrench.

Tyre- and rim markings should be aligned one above the other.

The 'empty' rim is clamped in with the ouside facing upwards, because it's often a very long way from the rim well to the inside rim edge. The tyre is always mounted from the outer side of the rim. Here also, each section of the tyre which has been forced over the rim edge, must be pressed into the rim well on the opposite side of the machine operation. At all costs, tension must be avoided when using the tyre irons or in the rim itself. Stop the minute you feel that the process is not going smoothly.

Should you see a damaged (fissure) part of the tyre, accept the fact, for your own good and for the good of others. At the moment, it doesn't mean a thing. However, if the damaged tyre is remounted, and the damage can no longer be seen, this could easily become a disaster. A new beginning however, is necessary, when any parts, which should have been clamped tight by the machine, have flown off, e.g., through the rotating rim.

Always mount the tyre starting at the valve and working away from it. Especially its rubber (or the sensor) could be damaged through the pulling of the tyre over the bead. Examine the tyre meticulously, if when mounting, you suspect something to be a bit odd, don't hesitate to remove the tyre from the rim once more. Should you not have enough hands, to hold the bead in the rim well, there are suitable holding-down clamps available.

Once the tyre has been mounted and if the compressed-air equipment can deliver more air than that which escapes past the bead, then it depends on the pop-in-pressure. This is not the maximum pressure of about 4 bar (in a motor car tyre), rather it is lower. If at this lower pressure, the tyre does not pop in, The reason must be found and may not be raised to the set pressure. In this case, there is the danger of the tyre being damaged when it does pop in. 09/10

Tyre mounting by hand ...

Tyre mounting partly automated ...