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Beetle engine 3


One would actually assume that with the price of a replacement being one tenth of the value of a new car, there was hardly any tinkering with the engine in the workshops. But this was not the case.

The assembly of a new or replacement engine cost 7.50 DM in the early 1950s.

Why? Maybe because the hourly wages charged were far below what is required today. It could therefore be worthwhile to take the risk of workshop work for partial revisions rather than replacing it from the factory with a guarantee.

This also allowed an apprentice to see a partially or completely disassembled engine relatively often. If the crankcase with the camshaft, crankshaft and connecting rods was assembled, this already formed a part of the engine assembly.

There is a golden rule for the learner if he carries out the assembly of an engine on his own and alone. Because he certainly doesn't have all the rules in his head that were given to him while watching. And if he doesn't have anyone to support him in his first attempts, then only one thing can help.

What is meant here is the careful dismantling. No, in doing so, determining the necessary torque is certainly not a good method. You must have remembered or written this down while learning. But all the other important details.

Which pistons were in which cylinders, as well as the location of the valves and tappets, where pierceable cardboard can be quite helpful. How the parts of the connecting rods were arranged to each other and how they belong on the crankshaft.

You can't go so much wrong with complete rolling bearings and bearing shells, because they have noses and pins. And if you don't use force, you should actually notice when you're doing something wrong. It is also important to write down everything that needs to be installed before you put the two housing halves together, for example.

It's very uncomfortable when you have to unscrew parts that have sealant on them because you forgot something. With a bit of luck you can get the forgotten cover on the camshaft in its position, but correctly is different.

Of course, you have already kept in mind where seals are needed, for example at the seams between the cylinders and the crankcase and not towards the cylinder heads and not between the housing halves. Also how little sealant experts actually use there.

If you don't have a dial gauge and can't borrow one, for example to adjust the axial play on the crankshaft, this is still acceptable if the most important components involved remain or are assembled again. In any case, we are assuming that you are trying this on an old, rather written-off engine in order to perhaps get it sealed again.

The Beetle's engine could prove to be a suitable training object; for example, it can be quickly removed again if necessary. However, no damage should occur at the start or shortly afterwards. Metal educates, does not forgive mistakes.

In addition, the parts have become noticeably more expensive than before, with the price sometimes increasing tenfold. Of course, this significantly limits the range of possible do-it-yourselfers. In this respect, the Beetle is a vehicle of the past, and not just because it still has a combustion engine with inventory keeping.

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