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Transmission
Gearbox-gripes
History 1
History 2
Var. Speed Gearbox 1
Var. Speed Gearbox 2
Var. Speed Gearbox 3
Var. Speed Gearbox 4
Var. Speed Gearbox 5
Light commercial veh.
Shift Possibilities
Gearshift Lever
Transmission (truck)
Ecosplit Gearbox
Gearshift (truck) 1
Gearshift (truck) 2
Truck Multi-axle Gearbox
Group/Splitter Gearb.
Gearbox Lubrication
Axilliary Drive
Retarder 1
Retarder 2
Retarder 3
Overdrive
Synchronising 1
Synchronising 2
Two-Shafts Gearbox
Gearbox (de)mounting 1
Gearbox (de)mounting 2
Dismantling Gearbox
Front - Cross-engine
3 Shafts (not coaxial)
Gear Shaft
Transmission Design
Tractive Power
Direct Shift Gearbox 1
Direct Shift Gearbox 2
Direct Shift Gearbox 3
Form. 1 Transmission
Motorcycle Gearbox

Transmission Ratio
Three-shafts Gearbox
Two-shafts Gearbox
Gear Spreading

Gearbox 1
Gearbox 2
Gearbox 3
Gearbox 4
Gearbox 5
Gearbox 6
Gearbox 7
Manual Gearbox 1
Manual Gearbox 2
Manual Gearbox 3



Dismantling a Gearbox








Before one starts the job, one should be sure that one has everything that one needs at hand, or at least that one can procure anything lacking at short notice. We'll describe roughly (not a repair manual!), the dismantling of a gearbox for a transverse engine. Whoever is doing the repair job, should have, apart from the instructions, at least a hydraulic press or should be able to convert a truck-jack with the exactly fitting carrier parts suitably. A wheel-puller with particularly long arms is also necessary.

To start with, any possible dipsticks and all the electric sensors and switches are to be removed. The flanges for the axel drive shaft can usually be levered off. With our example gearbox, the dismantling begins at the outside-most cover (counter example in video 2). The blocking of a gearbox with partly exposed gear-speeds can mostly be done by simultaneous selecting two gears. Thus one can loosen the nuts on the gear-wheels without difficulty. one can then reach the mountings of the shaft bearings.

At some point, in older gearboxes, ball-bearings with retaining springs appear, they are there to hold the selection rods in position, thus securing the gear-speeds. Should e.g., when pulling off, the selected gear jump out by itself, it won't help to refit the springs with more pre-tension. At the latest by the way, if the springs have varying lengths, the separate storage of the parts and the respective labelling is necessary.


At some point, all the circlip or retaining rings are removed and one can unscrew the gearbox casing. Of course, one must pay attention to any possible engagement- or selector levers. Once the retainers for the selecting forks are dismantled and removed, the input-, output- and reverse shaft can be removed. This is when the circlip pliers and the long-arm wheel-puller are brought into play. The diameters are so finely graded, that almost all the gear-wheels can only be removed from one end of the shaft and this is not necessarily the shorter end. The later remounting is done with the help of the hydraulic press. 07/15




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